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The producers of the most exclusive fabrics weave their magic

If you want the most beautiful fabrics of the highest quality, you either need to go to Biella in Italy or to the Outer Hebrides in Scotland. That’s where Europe’s best weavers are based. They make unique textiles from sheep’s wool that later become central components of the garments created by CG – CLUB of GENTS.

From the traditional loom to the most exclusive weavers in Europe

Warp and weft. That’s all you need to create a bolt of fabric. The warp threads are stretched in place in a row on the loom. The weft threads are then woven into the warp threads one at a time from one side to the other. This technique is still used today to create all kinds of fabrics. However, there are not many weavers who sit at home working on their looms all day. Nowadays, mass-produced textiles usually originate from China, India, Bangladesh, South Korea and Taiwan. However, when it comes to the manufacture of suits and jackets every effort is made to ensure that the fabric is of the best quality. That’s why menswear specialists favour fabrics made by European weavers. Scotland and Italy are the heartlands of textile production, particularly where wool is concerned. Thanks to its advantageous location on the River Cervo, the region around Biella has long been one of the most important places on the wool industry map. Weavers here are still producing the best cloth in the world. The Outer Hebrides in Scotland are also home to many sheep farmers and an unparalleled fabric manufacturing tradition. The trademarked Harris Tweed is made on these islands and, for a few years now, has been experiencing a comeback in the formal wear sector.

From Paris to Milan and Munich – on the hunt for new fabrics

What does the perfect fabric look like? What colours and textures are fashionable? Various fabric and textile trade fairs throughout Europe provide excellent platforms for exchanging ideas, gaining exclusive industry insights and purchasing fabric for next season’s collection. This is where the designers and buyers for CG – CLUB of GENTS meet with representatives from the weaving mills to select fabrics for the new collections. Twice a year the CG – CLUB of GENTS team attends the View Premium Selection and Munich Fabric Start in Germany, the Milano Unica in Italy and the Première Vision in Paris, France. It’s only thanks to our close, long-term collaborations with weaving mills such as Marzotto Tessuti, Guabello, Vitale Barberis Canonico, Reda and Harris Tweed Hebrides that we can create authentic suits of the highest quality.

Marzotto Tessuti

The story of the weaving factory Marzotto Tessuti begins in Valdagno in a beautiful valley in the province of Vicenza. In 1836, Luigi Marzotto founded a small wool weaving factory with just 12 employees. Between 1894 and 1972, the original, traditional textile workshop became more and more important thanks to the resourcefulness and innovative spirit of Luigi’s son Gaetano Marzotto. Today it is an international player in the manufacture and sale of high-quality textiles. The weaving factory is the foundation stone of the current Marzotto Group, which is now represented in three business sectors: wool (Marzotto Tessuti, Guabello, Marlane), plant-based natural fibres (Redaelli Velluti, Tessuti di Sondrio, Nuova Tessilbrenta) and silk (Ratti). The rapid growth of Marzotto Tessuti is primarily based on the company’s constant production development; artisanship, production know-how, creative skills and innovative methods have turned this little wool weaving factory into a textile manufacturer with over 3,000 employees.


It’s no secret that you need to visit the little villages in the province of Piedmont to get the most fashionably sophisticated fabrics of the highest quality. Guabello is one of the weaving mills located in this region. Since 1815, the company has been one of the region’s leading producers of high-quality wool. Today Guabello is part of the Marzotto Group and specialises in woollen items, elegant woollen blends and cashmere. The fabrics tell a story – a story of outstanding achievement, the Biella region and the high quality of the products. Special, innovative production machines make it possible for Guabello to create beautifully structured fabrics that are unbelievably lightweight. Furthermore, the Biella region and the production facility in Mongrando have generated unique expertise, dedication and passion, which have been passed down over centuries. In order to guarantee its high quality into the future, Guabello imports its wool from the best farms in Australia and New Zealand.

Vitale Barberis Canonico

The corporate history of the Vitale Barberis Canonico weaving mill can be traced back to the year 1663. The first authentic documents from this period describe a dyeing process that was very rare in those days. The company, located in the textile region of Biella, is the oldest weaving mill in the world and specialises in very high-quality merino woollen fabrics. In order to ensure the highest quality of raw materials, the sheep graze on the company’s own farm in Mudgee, Australia. This traditional company has a flair for exquisite materials, contemporary fashion and the latest technologies making it one of the world’s best weaving mills. General market developments such as the global economic crisis and two world wars had little effect on the company and over time it has continued to expand. Today the weaving mill is operated by the 13th generation of the Barberis Canonico family.


In the valley near Biella lies the municipality of Valle Mosso, which is home to 3000 people. The face of the village is particularly dominated by the cuboid factory buildings of the Reda weaving mill. This historic wool manufacture was founded in 1865 by local entrepreneur Carlo Reda. In 1919, the Botto brothers bought the weaving will and over the coming decades turned it into a great institution within the textile industry. Ercole Botto and his cousin Francesco Botto, who run the company today, focus on intensive growth by means of innovation without neglecting the tradition of the family-owned company. Reda specialises in woollen textiles and therefore has its own farms in New Zealand with approximately 30,000 sheep. To ensure the high quality of their raw material, the Botto family mainly buy wool from Australia and New Zealand, cashmere from Inner Mongolia and mohair from South Africa.

Harris Tweed Hebrides

Tweed cloth has been made all over Scotland for centuries. However, when synthetic fibres from low-wage countries became fashionable in the 1960s, demand for traditional woollen goods experienced a slump. A few years ago, designers rediscovered the fabric and are now using Harris Tweed, which has been a protected brand since 1910, for everything from sneaker appliqués and mobile phone cases to jackets. Producing Harris Tweed involves dyeing the fleece of the pure new wool instead of the yarn. Furthermore, only fabric woven by hand in the weavers’ homes in the Outer Hebrides in Scotland may be called Harris Tweed. These requirements are strictly controlled and only when they are fulfilled does the cloth received the unique Orb Mark. All this makes this robust yet elegant fabric absolutely unique, and the Harris Tweed Hebrides company exports it all over the world.

Where Trends Emerge – a Foray through the Artists’ and Design Scene of Shoreditch

London Underground – Old Street: we enter the streets of London. After a short walk we find ourselves on Brick Lane. We’re in the hip and trendy Shoreditch district. It’s where you find street art side by side with renowned gourmet restaurants and retro vintage stores. To this day, the district is a source of inspiration for fashion and design – including for CG – CLUB of GENTS.

From Dreary Immigrant Neighbourhood to Trendy Artists’ Scene

Today, Shoreditch is one of the most exciting districts of London. Even though more and more tourists have discovered it in recent years, Shoreditch is definitely worth a visit. It lies beyond the traditional sightseeing attractions in the Hackney borough of London’s East End, and yet, this trendy scene is really only a stone’s throw from the city. In the nineteenth century, Shoreditch was a dreary immigrant and working-class neighbourhood and terrorised by the serial murderer Jack the Ripper. At the end of the twentieth century, designer Alexander McQueen and artist Damien Hirst moved into the empty warehouses. Many like-minded people followed them, which is why later on, the district came to be mainly populated by the avant-garde from the design, fashion and art worlds. Since then, numerous IT firms have established themselves there, as well. Most of them work in shared offices in old, elaborately restored warehouses in this Silicon Valley of London. Due to the ever-growing popularity of the district, the real creative scene is now moving further east. What they leave behind is cafés and galleries, markets and boutiques, restaurants and second-hand shops.

Pop-up Stores, Vintage Shops, and Antiques Markets


Boxpark was the first pop-up shopping mall in the world and is regarded as the revolutionary blueprint for a new concept. This shopping mall, composed of shipping containers, is a real highlight and has since been copied by many other European cities. One of the greatest attributes of Boxpark is the redefinition of the shopping and gastronomy concept. There’s not just a great diversity of restaurants and shops; the bars, terraces and streets are host to a diverse cultural programme as well.

2- 10 Bethnal Green Rd


Vintage specialists from Britain and mainland Europe offer their goods on Brick Lane Vintage Market at the Truman Brewery. The boutiques offer clothing items covering everything fashion dreamt up from the 1920s through to the 1990s. Whether it’s glamorous fur coats, feather cloaks, classic bridal wear, men’s suits, vinyl records or one-of-a-kind accessories – there are innumerable discoveries to be made.

85 Brick Lane


There really is no shortage of markets in the Shoreditch district, but one of the greatest and oldest is Old Spitalfields Market, which has been around for 350 years. This market is open seven days a week and each day has a different theme. On Thursdays there is a large antiques market, and on Fridays one can buy art and clothing. 44 retailers and restaurants, 88 market stalls and 25 street food stands are gathered together here, beneath a Victorian market roof.

16 Homer Square

The Artistic Centre of London’s Street Art


This exhibition centre is home to contemporary arts and offers artists from the fields of photography, painting, sculpture and new media a platform for networking and to showcase their work. It’s worth visiting the location just for one of the numerous events that take place here throughout the year. Aside from the music and arts programme, there’s an all-night food market, film showings and skateboard shows. Additionally, there is an outdoor pop-up event called “red market” in the summer.

1-3 Rivington Street


The Cargo is a London institution. This nightclub is located in an old train viaduct and since its opening in November 2000, the most diverse events have taken place there. Above all, however, the Cargo is home to music, from live performances to club sounds like House, Techno and Electro. Additionally, there is a street art gallery on the outside, featuring works by Banksy and Shepard Fairey.

83 Rivington Street


“What you see today might be gone tomorrow.” Street art sets out to irritate, provoke and communicate. It comes in all different shapes, sizes and colours – as graffiti, murals, posters and collage. In Shoreditch, it’s hardly possible to avoid the fantastic street art. Especially around Brick Lane, there’s hardly a wall that’s been left untouched. Internationally known street artists like Banksy, Roa and Space Invaders have immortalised themselves here. But the works can disappear from view as quickly as they appear – so keep your eyes open and don’t forget to walk on both sides of the road.

Our tip: free Street Art & Graffiti Tour

The perfect shirt – a buyer`s guide

The shirt is like a second skin, so it’s not surprising that the average German  man owns 16 of these must-have items. The following shirt-buying guide gives you all the tips you need to bear in mind when looking for the perfect shirt.

First and foremost - size and fit

The first thing to consider when buying a shirt is choosing the right size. Shirts come in multi-sizes with the only difference between a 41 and a 42, for example, being in the collar circumference. The shirt will be the same size and the same cut, but the collar will be a little wider in a size 42. These are the standard sizes for men’s shirts in Germany: 37/38 (S) – 39/40 (M) – 41/42 (L) – 43/44 (XL) – 45/46 (XXL). Your waist circumference determines the fit of the shirt. The key things to consider here are the way you wear your shirt and what fit you feel most comfortable in.

Slim Fit shirts (also known as Body Fit) have a narrow, tapered cut.
Regular Fit shirts (also known as Modern Fit or Tailored Fit) are cut straight.
Comfort Fit shirts (also known as Loose Fit) are cut wide and are worn loosely.

The fabric quality

You can recognise a good shirt by the quality of its fabric and the processing technique used to make it. Most shirts are made of cotton, which can be processed in various ways. The most important thing is that the fabric feels good, so always remove a shirt from its packaging so that you can touch it before committing to a purchase. Of course, your decision also depends on your budget and your personal taste. Below is a list of the most well-known fabrics and weaves you should be aware of:


  • Poplin (cotton) is a high-quality shirt fabric with a slightly ribbed structure. Shirts made of poplin are very durable and comfortable to wear.
  • Batiste (cotton) has a fine weave, which makes the shirt light and airy. This fabric is ideal for warm summer days.
  • Flannel (cotton) features a soft, roughened surface, which gives the shirt a grainy look. It’s ideal for warm, checked, casual shirts.
  • Oxford (cotton) is soft and very robust and durable thanks to its sturdy yarn. Oxford fabric is best used for casual button-down shirts.
  • Twill (cotton) is a robust woven fabric with a diagonal ribbed structure. It’s mainly used for casual shirts for cooler days.
  • Linen is a natural fibre, which is highly breathable, practically lint free and also bacteria repellent. Linen shirts are cool on the skin and are ideal for summer.
  • Silk is very high maintenance, but also comfortable to wear. This fine fabric is cooling in the summer and warming in the winter.
    As a result, silk shirts are very exclusive and expensive.
  • Wool also plays a role, particularly in the casual segment. The quality depends on the type of wool and how it has been processed. Wool is often mixed with synthetic fibres to improve wearing comfort and durability.

The ultimate checklist for a perfectly fitting shirt

  • The shirt should not strain across the chest, but it also shouldn’t fit too loosely. The shirt should also be comfortable and fit well when you sit down.
  • When the collar is buttoned all the way up, you should be able to fit two fingers between your neck and the shirt.
  • The armhole seams should sit right where your shoulder becomes your arm, except when it comes to dropped shoulders or oversized shirts.
  • A shirt that is worn untucked should not be longer than the lower edge of the belt.
  • A shirt that is worn tucked in should remain tucked in when you sit down; if it doesn’t, it’s too short.
  • The correct sleeve length is between the bottom of the thumb and the wrist. Shirt sleeves should be longer than jacket sleeves, but not by more than 1.5 cm.
  • Cuffs should be wide enough for a watch to have space underneath without the fabric becoming taut. However, they definitely shouldn’t slip over your hands.

Collars - the crucial criteria

From casual to elegant, nothing determines the style of a shirt as much as the style of its collar. Here are the most important types of men’s shirt collars:


  • Spread collar – Classic, fashionable and elegant all at once. A spread collar is suitable for all occasions and can be worn with both a tie and a bow tie.
  • Button-down collar – A casual style for a relaxed look. For non-tie wearers, leave the top button undone. What’s special about this style are the tiny, visible buttons on the points that keep the collar in shape. An alternative is the hidden button-down collar where the buttons are concealed underneath the collar.
  • Cutaway collar – A universal style with exquisite elegance. A shirt with this type of collar is best suited for a serious office job. The collar points finish far apart making it ideal for larger tie knots.
  • Cuban collar – A casual, flat style that is once again a fashion hit for summer 2020. The upper part of the shirt is folded outwards with the collar to create the distinctive shape. Due to this open neckline, the shirt is worn as a casual item without a tie or a bow tie. This style may appear familiar thanks to the bowling shirts worn by Charlie Sheen in “Two and a Half Men”.
  • Band collar – This is a classic, narrow collar without a turndown and is bang on trend. Buttoned up it has a very uniform-like look, but it can also be worn undone with jeans for a casual look.
  • Wing collar – A very elegant style for seriously special occasions. Shirts with these collars are almost always worn with bow ties. Add a dinner jacket, a tailcoat or an elegant suit for a truly perfect look.
  • Tab collar – A more elegant version of the spread collar. An additional strip of fabric holds the points of the collar together for a perfect fit. This collar is worn with a narrow tie; the knot sits quite high allowing it to be well displayed.
  • Pin collar – A relation of the tab collar that is suitable for very special, elegant occasions. For this collar type you need a collar pin, which is inserted through two holes in the collar points. Here as well, the tie knot is highlighted, so make sure you tie it neatly. Choose this type of collar if you want to stand out from the crowd or fancy trying out something more unusual.
Spread collar
Cuban collar

Cuffs and button plackets - the devil is in the detail

The ends of shirt sleeves are called the cuffs. The main reason behind cuffs was to protect jacket sleeves, which is why they still protrude from underneath them today.

Barrel cuffs are buttoned and are less formal. The number of buttons and the length of the sleeve slit can vary here. Barrel cuffs with two buttons allow the width of the sleeves to be adjusted.
The most elegant style is the French cuff, which is folded at the wrist and fastened with a separate pair of cufflinks. Here again the length of the slit can vary. French cuffs are an absolute must-have for black tie events.

Buttons on shirts were added relatively late. Although nobody knows why, men’s shirts are always buttoned left over right, while women’s blouses are buttoned right over left. However, we do know that nowadays there are three types of button plackets on shirts.

On a French placket the buttons are visible; the style is very subtle and shirts with this placket can be dressed up and down as the occasion demands.
A standard placket provides greater stability for the buttonholes making the shirt more durable.
Buttons on a concealed button placket are not visible. These shirts are very elegant and are ideal for special occasions.

Caring for your shirt

Just like any other item of clothing, a shirt must be well cared for. To preserve the quality and shape of your shirt for as long as possible, here are some tips to bear in mind when it comes to washing, ironing and storing. 


Washing: You can wash shirts in the machine at 30°C – 40°C. If there are stubborn grease or sweat stains on the shirt or if it has a yellowed collar, you can use any other conventional stain remover. Sort your shirts by colour and do not add any heavy fabrics, such as jeans, to the wash. At any rate, you should always observe the care instructions on the label in the shirt. Spin cycles can be taxing on shirts and should be reduced to lower RPMs.

Drying: The best way to dry shirts is to hang them on clothes hangers. Before hanging, do up all the buttons and smooth out the shirt so that all the seams are correctly aligned and to prevent creasing.

Ironing and storing: Iron your shirts while they are still damp. The right temperature depends on the quality of the fabric and care instructions on the label. First iron the collar and then move on to the sleeves and cuffs, pulling them taut and then ironing them. Then lay the shirt over the ironing board  and iron the front and back. Do not iron over the buttons. Iron breast pockets from the seams to the inside. After ironing, hang the shirt on a clothes hanger to cool and then hang it in your wardrobe.

Fashion trends Spring/Summer 2020: Here are the hottest styles for the summer

What is on trend in 2020? Although we are still in February, we thought you should have a sneak peek at your summer wardrobe essentials. Let us show you the six must-haves for men.

Soft colours

During the summer months remember that suits don’t have to be only black, dark grey or blue. The warmer months of the year are ideal for opting for soft, light colours. This year, beige in various shades is particularly cool. And you can wear light colours anywhere, be it an elegant evening event, a garden party or the office.

Cuban collar shirt

Once branded as the kind of shirt that only Charlie Sheen or pensioners would wear, Cuban collar shirts have become a staple that will never go out of fashion, and they are experiencing renewed popularity this summer. Floral prints that give every outfit a retro style are particularly hip. Cuban collar shirts don’t necessarily have to be short-sleeved – a version with long sleeves makes a trendy combination with cloth trousers.


We have already shown you in this blog article how to correctly fold a pocket square. But a pocket square has many more uses. This summer it is best repurposed as a neckerchief. Traditional gentlemen take a classic approach and wear white or black pocket squares, elegantly tucked into the collar neckline. You can create a rock star vibe by knotting the casually twisted kerchief at your throat and letting the ends dangle down. Or you can opt for eye-catching patterns and tie it tightly around your throat to make a fashion statement.


One trend from last year is definitely here to stay: stripes. They have a particularly fresh and casual look this summer in light shades. Here, too, beige, off-white and pastel shades are the best choice. The best thing about this must-have look: trendy vertical stripes elongate the silhouette and ensure you always cut a dash – whether they are on a jacket, waistcoat, shirt or trousers.

Light and comfortable

Just as a tight and uncomfortable cut is inadvisable, the same goes for the fabric you choose. Who wants to sweat in an XS shirt on hot days? Oversize shirts and loose-fitting shorts are better suited for the hot weather. Natural fabrics, such as linen, are also remarkably comfortable to wear. As for warm days in the office, linen waistcoats and trousers combined with loosely rolled-up shirt-sleeves are a great alternative to classic business wear.


When temperatures rise, the dress code tends to relax, and men find open shoes to be a huge blessing. Mules or strap sandals are worn with casual suits and informal outfits, giving your clothing an Italian look. Leather sandals are a perfect option for a variety of styles. If you’re brave, you can even wear socks with them. Yes, that’s right! As long as they are not walking sandals, this is a fashionable look that will be making a statement this summer.

Fashion Interview: Daoud Daftarie

He works with well-known photographers and models, organises photo shoots and ensures the styling is perfect. Daoud Daftarie has found his dream job as an editor, stylist and consultant in the fashion industry. We caught up with him at Fashion Week in Berlin to talk about his work and to learn some styling tips to create the perfect look for suits.

What is your job and how did you find your dream career?


I work as a freelance fashion editor and stylist. I design and organise photo shoots for magazines like ELLE and L’Officiel. I also work on the styling for campaigns and look books for fashion brands such as CG – CLUB OF GENTS. After studying fashion design and completing a year-long internship with Anna Sui in New York, I worked as a fashion editor for various fashion magazines. In 2002, I launched into self-employment and have been working as a freelancer since then.

What do you like most about being a stylist?    

Daoud: Creating a look. I find the whole process fascinating; creating a look and an image from a large collection and lots of product groups with the help of accessories and styling.

How did you start working with CG – CLUB of GENTS?

Daoud: I’ve been working in close collaboration with the CG – CLUB of GENTS’ team since 2017, creating the styling for the campaigns’ collections. We have worked together on these in London, Berlin, Paris and Amsterdam as well as other places. I also work with the CG team on the styling for the CG – CLUB of GENTS fashion show at Berlin Fashion Week.

Do you have a favourite model or outfit at CG – CLUB of GENTS?

Daoud: When choosing models, CG – CLUB of GENTS focuses less on typical commercial models and more on individuals who are always chosen for their particular look – so it’s not really possible to choose a favourite. And as for the outfits, of course there are unconventional pieces in the collection, showcased in the fashion show in particular. One example is the floor-length faux fur coat modelled at the fashion show in Berlin in January.

What does good styling depend on and what is a complete no-no?

Daoud: There aren’t any no-no’s any more, thank goodness. The most important thing is not to over-style your outfit.

What pieces should every man have in his wardrobe?   

Daoud: That rather depends on your job and lifestyle. But a ‘good’ suit is essential. You need a suit for work and for festive occasions. And then the jacket can also go with t-shirts and jeans and the suit trousers can be combined with a shirt and a pullover.

What should you look for in your first suit? 

Daoud: The right sleeve and trouser length!  As you don’t buy a suit every day, it is worth the investment to have your suit fitted perfectly by a good tailor.

What tips do you have for accessories? How can you upgrade your outfit?

Daoud: A suit is an all-rounder. It doesn’t necessarily have to be upgraded by accessories, rather restyled for different occasions: a suit can be given a casual look by wearing it with trainers and a white t-shirt. You can create the ideal business look by wearing a shirt, tie, pocket square and leather shoes. Or you can look like a rock star with pointed-toe boots, patterned shirt and a neckerchief.

We wish Daoud Daftarie continued success and look forward to working on future projects with him. Find more information on

CG goes student

On 22.01.2019, the final of the co-design project “CG goes student” took place at the company headquarters in Hersbruck. The students presented their final designs for the new Savile Row by CG – CLUB of GENTS collection, which were evaluated by a specially selected panel of judges.

Creative designs and elated winners

On 22 January, a group of 23 students from the Münchberg campus of the Hof University of Applied Sciences arrived at the headquarters of CG – CLUB OF GENTS in a large coach. After being welcomed in the showroom, each student presented their final designs in front of a specially selected panel of judges. Prof. Michael Barta (Professor for Textile Design, Hof University of Applied Sciences), Günther Loos (Senior Product Manager, CG – CLUB of GENTS), Julia Metz (Head of Human Resources, Création Gross), Stefanie Denk (Senior Product Manager, CG – CLUB of GENTS) and Florian Wortmann (Division Head, CG – CLUB of GENTS) evaluated the print designs according to various criteria such as creativity, overall concept and the way in which they fitted with the brand and the theme. The top three winners won a trip to Berlin to the next CG – CLUB OF GENTS fashion show in summer 2019. Furthermore, individual designs were selected that will now be used in the further development process for the Savile Row by CG – CLUB of GENTS collection. Over dinner together after the grand finale, the students were able to discuss all things fashion related with our team.

The “CG goes student” project

“CG goes student” is a co-design project in which students on the BA Textile Design course at the Hof University of Applied Sciences have the opportunity to gain initial experience in the world of work. The central focus here is on industrial processes and their limitations and opportunities. The students were given the task of designing new prints for the new Savile Row by CG – CLUB of GENTS collection for Spring/Summer 2020. The aim was to implement the theme of the collection as well as the essence and the message of the brand in a unique and creative manner.

Go Textile!

Milena, one of the students who took part in the “CG goes student” project and who came second overall, reported about the project and her studies as part of the “Go Textile!” campaign. This campaign reveals the complete diversity of the fashion industry from the point of view of young people and reports on a world that is not only exciting but also offers excellent opportunities for the future.

Find out more about “Go Textile!” at: