This way and no other: The Jacket fitting guide - CG – CLUB of GENTS

This way and no other: The Jacket fitting guide

No matter how high the quality of workmanship which has gone into making a jacket, in the end it is only as good as its fit. And this is precisely where many men trip up. If you take 5 minutes and observe the men walking past in a pedestrian zone filled with lots of passers-by, you will quickly come to realise that only a very few of the men you see are wearing really well-fitting jackets.

The problem often lies in the fact that many men buy a jacket which is too large for them. Even if the size is right, however, it is the small details, such as the correct sleeve length, which make for a perfect look. Unfortunately, only a shrinkingly smaller number of men are lucky enough not to have to change their jacket. In the following article, we show you what to note when it comes to fit and what you can still have adjusted subsequently.

The first points are important, as alterations by a men’s tailor cannot be made in these regards or can only be carried out at great expense.

The Collar

sits on the collar of the shirt in a well-sitting jacket and also moves as little as possible from the neck during movement.

The lapel

should not stick out from the body and should not form any creases.

The shoulder

of the man fills out the jacket without stretching the material of the sleeve.

The leaning test can be used to check whether the fit at the shoulder is correct: If a man leans sideways against a wall, the shoulder of the suit should rest meet the wall at the same time as the man’s shoulder.

The number of buttons

should be chosen depending on height. The rule of thumb applied is: The taller the person wearing the jacket, the more buttons it should have. Trends in fashion of course naturally play an important role in this regard as well. Two-button jackets are the ones which are currently seen most frequently. Independently of the number of buttons, however, what always applies is that the lowest button is not done up. The exception to this rule is a jacket with one button.

The optimum length for a jacket

is established by measuring the distance from the centre of the neck to the ground and then dividing this by two. If the desired jacket is too short or too long, then you should possibly change over to a long size or a stocky size. Trends in fashion naturally also exert an influence in this regard as well. While jackets have been becoming ever shorter in the past few years, in Italy longer jackets are also coming to the fore again.

The following elements can be adjusted more easily.

The waistline

should not be too wide or too narrow. What determines the right width in this regard is, however, often a matter of taste. As a guide, a clenched fist at most should fit between the jacket and the stomach. Slim Fit suits in particular can be considerably more narrow provided the button is not subject to strain. In terms of width, a tailor can naturally help out subsequently. Narrowing, even by a few centimetres, does not usually present any problem. Widening a jacket, on the other hand, is only possible in certain cases.

The Sleeve

sits properly if it ends at wrist level. A well-sitting shirt protrudes for approx. a further 2 cm from the sleeve. Sleeves are often worn way too long. This does not usually present a problem and can be rectified by a tailor. A sleeve can, however, only be lengthened in certain conditions, as only a small amount of reserve material can be provided for, depending on the jacket.

How a jacket fits is therefore influenced by many factors. A jacket with an optimum fit is not usually to be found off-the-peg and some elements will still need to be altered. For this reason, you should factor in an additional €50-100 for alterations into your budget when buying a jacket. How can we be sure, though, that the alterations will be worth it and that a well-fitting jacket will be available for years to come?

What’s the situation in your wardrobe? Do your jackets fit? Are alterations the right thing or are new jackets needed?

We hope this contribution has been of some help to you in searching for the best jacket you can buy.

Your CG- Club of Gents Team

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